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The Secret of Skriðuklaustur

For four weeks, I studied this stone wall above the old monastery, trying to catch it in a light that revealed it. My gut told me that these rocks were culturally-altered, but nothing came clear that I...

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Iceland: the Painted Land

Time to crouch down among the ghosts of summer’s birds and become a ghost yourself. And you’re still chasing the Northern Lights, because….?

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Tree Islands in Iceland

Who needs a forest! In Iceland, every stone is the whole island. That’s the magic of living on a land that is a ship at sea. ~ Klausturhamrar

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Horseless Carriage, the Icelandic Version

Skriðuklaustur A bit of grease, a harness, some WD40, and a few drops of oil and it will run again. Who needs a road network, eh.

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Looking for Trolls in Iceland

Well, forget the tourist pamphlets, that collect old folktales from the 19th century. Those were created in an attempt to sort out folk stories from the many traditions of Icelandic settlers. Truth is,...

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Why Do Icelandic Horses Have Long Ears?

Wind! You’d lose the use of one ear most of the time if you didn’t. A serious issue! Plus, it’s stylish, eh. If you turn your head, you can hear even better, but you can’t always do that now, can you....

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War Memorials in Iceland

In West Iceland, the aluminum plant in Hvalfjörður, which draws power from the dammed highlands, is watched over by the abandoned World War II fighter base that guarded the British Fleet, and which is...

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100 Years of Trolls

When you’re in Iceland, it’s good to get off the beaten track. No tour guide will lead you to this troll at Skriðuklaustur. Or this one. If people laugh about your troll finds, does that really matter?...

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Troll Moon

It’s only up before sunrise. Skriðuklaustur But worth going out in the cold for!

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Spring Fun With Old Friends and New Ones on the Jökullsá

Since the raven and her mate circled around all the time, keeping an eye on things, one day at Skriðuklaustur, when the geese arrived to wait for spring, I sat down on a hill and waited to catch the...

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